Alice Bernard: Parisian Designer for the Traveling Elite (1908–1926)

📌 Discover the fashion legacy of Alice Bernard, Parisian couturière to stage stars and first-class travelers. Explore original 1908–1926 designs, rare images, and commentary on transatlantic style culture. A valuable resource for fashion educators, historians, and genealogists.

Tailor-Made Design by Alice Bernard of Turquoise Velours de Laine. High Medici Collar and Slit Sleeves Trimmed With Grey Squirrel; Back and Sides of Coat Shirred Slightly; Plain Tight Skirt. Garment Manufacturers' Index, October 1920. GGA Image ID # 1a4830df4d

The Allure of Alice Bernard – Parisian Elegance for the Ocean-Going Elite (1908–1926)

An Archive-Fueled Fashion Study for Educators, Students, Historians & Genealogists
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🧵 Overview: A Parisian House with Global Impact

Alice Bernard, one of Paris’s most quietly influential designers of the early 20th century, crafted a fashion house that merged tailoring precision with luxurious femininity. Though lesser known than Chanel or Lanvin today, Bernard’s designs were widely respected and enthusiastically worn by transatlantic travelers, performers, and high society patrons on both sides of the Atlantic.

This article and the accompanying images from periodicals such as Harper’s Bazar, Les Modes, and Silk offer a rare primary source window into the textures, colors, and silhouettes that defined Bernard’s fashion legacy from pre-WWI into the mid-1920s.

It’s a goldmine for:

🎓 Fashion history classes

📚 Social studies focused on women’s roles and travel

🧬 Genealogical research

📸 Visual art & design education

🛳️ Maritime historians exploring luxury liner culture

Madame Alice Bernard, the hardworking head of the House, worked for ten years at Poiret, where she was one of his most valuable assistants. When Poiret closed during the war, she moved to Jeanne Lanvin's. This House presents a delightful and diverse collection of winter suits made from beautiful materials that are well-known for their tailoring.

Blue Crepe Marocain and Striped Sleeves by Alice Bernard. Harper's Bazar, July 1921, p. 77. GGA Image ID # 1c9f93a873

After the armistice, she felt the need to express her wealth of ideas more personally. Thus, she meticulously designed an exceptional establishment in the rue François Premier, where the marble floors and Pompeian decorations, along with the carefully curated lighting and spacious layout, serve as a unique and perfect backdrop for Madame Bernard's distinctive models.

The Maison Alice Bernard is famous for its tailor-made, although it excels in all styles. Our winter suits, a diverse range of beautiful stuff, velours de laine, duvetyns, and velvets in a rich palette of warm browns, fawns, café au lait, and a new shade of greenish-blue, 'dead turquoise,' are sure to excite your fashion senses and cater to your unique style.

Spring Tailleurs by Bernard. There Is No More Important Costume in the Spring Wardrobe Than the Trotteur, and Paris Is Creating Many Beautiful Models. Bernard Embroiders Black Duvetyn With White Silk in a Graceful Design. The Coat, Slightly Plaited at the Waist-line, and the Skirt Are Bound With White. Harpers' Bazar, March 1921, p. 72. GGA Image ID # 1c9ff7f2f6

As we are writing for the winter season, it seems a curious anomaly that neckwear should protect the throat sensibly by the decree of Dame Fashion. This practical design choice keeps the wearer warm and cozy during the chilly winter months, making you look stylish and comfortable.

Among a dozen chic models, one stands out in captivating dark blue velour de laine, a type of wool. This three-quarter coat is gored, flares a good deal, and slopes gently down at the sides towards the back. Intricate embroidery and fur trimmings at the cuffs add a unique touch to the long, loose sleeves, making this model a must-have for the winter season.

An oversized, loose shawl collar and wide sleeves complete the jacket, faintly embroidered in delicate gold tracery. A high-necked, square waistcoat of copper taffeta finishes off this chic ensemble, a perfect choice for winter fashion.

For those seeking comfort and warmth, felted satin (much warmer than the usual variety) is the perfect choice. This all-black coat slips on over the head using a V-neck, which does not preclude a high broadtail collar. It is shirred slightly at the back and sides, and the hip-level horizontal bands of raised stitching trim this long coat, providing a cozy and protective layer for the winter chill.

Skirts may take a backseat this year, but fear not, for the spotlight is on the elegant long jackets. These jackets, at least three-quarters in length, slightly flare, and are not exaggerated. The high collar, a fashion statement in itself, wraps around the throat and stands out in a Medici shape, adding a touch of sophistication to your winter wardrobe.

Black Serge Trimmed With Satin by Alice Bernard. Harper's Bazar, March 1921, p. 82. GGA Image ID # 1ca031051d

The knee-length coat is trimmed with a broad band of Kolinsky fur. It has a large, comfortable shawl collar fastened at the waist by a single button, and the wide cuffs are also trimmed with fur. Another version of the coat, made of a coffee-colored fabric called duvetyn, has a perfect cut.

The coat's fullness is gathered at the hips in small pleats, and the back is slightly longer than the front, which is a popular style choice.

An Exquisite Evening Costume of White Embroidered Satin From the House of Bernard. Silk, February 1909, p. 81. GGA Image ID # 1ca06f8bee

I note an excellent collection of fur, brocade evening wraps, charmingly youthful tulle, and silver dancing frocks. A beaded white Georgette tunic slit into panels over old rose taffeta strikes a pretty note.

Sea Side Frock by Alice Bernard. Photo by Félix. The Pall Mall Magazine, August 1912, p. 330. GGA Image ID # 1cafc4ebaf

Mlle Dutrieux, du Théatre des Capucines de Nice Wearing a Dinner Gown by Bernard. Les Modes, April 1908, p. 9. GGA Image ID# 1cb1f63d4d

Tailored Suits by Bernard. Photos by Reutlinger. Les Modes, May 1908, p. 14. GGA Image ID # 1cb28c6922

Miss May de Souza Wears a Dinner Gown by Bernard. Photo by Félix. Les Modes, July 1908, p. 13. GGA Image ID # 1cb3a14398

To Alice Bernard, Your Gown is All the Rage Over Here, So I Am Sending You Its Photograph with All My Compliments. Irene Bordoni-1926. Harper's Bazar, July 1926. GGA Image ID # 217d142235

"Alice Bernard" in the Garment Manufacturers' Index, New York: The Allen-Nugent Co. Publishers, Vol. II, No. 3, October 1920: 32.

🚢 Relevance to Ocean Travel & Fashion

Fashion wasn’t just a frivolous indulgence aboard the great ocean liners—it was a statement of status, identity, and worldliness. On ships like the RMS Carmania, elite women were expected to appear refined at every hour of the day, with distinct ensembles for promenade deck strolls, dinner dances, and chilly ocean breezes.

🧳 Alice Bernard’s designs catered directly to this need, offering:

🔹 Tailored day suits for travel and public appearances

🔹 Luxe coats trimmed with fur for brisk North Atlantic crossings

🔹 Seaside frocks ideal for warm-weather destinations like Nice or Atlantic City

🔹 Gowns admired at shipboard galas, theaters, or elite salons

This connection between couture and travel culture makes Bernard’s work especially compelling for those studying:

🔹 The lives of transatlantic passengers

🔹 The role of fashion in female autonomy

🔹 The evolution of travel wardrobes in the Belle Époque and Jazz Age

💎 Most Engaging Highlights

1. Tailor-Made Velours de Laine Coat (1920) | 🖼️ GGA Image ID # 1a4830df4d

“High Medici Collar and Slit Sleeves Trimmed With Grey Squirrel... Back and Sides Shirred Slightly.”

This design showcases Bernard’s hallmark: tailoring with flair. The Medici collar elevates the neckline, while slit sleeves suggest both movement and modernity. Ideal for a chilly ship deck or winter stroll through Paris.

2. Spring Trotteur Suit in Embroidered Black Duvetyn (1921) | 🖼️ GGA Image ID # 1c9ff7f2f6

“Slightly plaited at the waist-line... bound with white... embroidered in a graceful design.”

The trotteur, a walking suit essential for spring, is here transformed into a black-and-white statement piece, ideal for the travel-savvy woman. Functional yet artistic—a true interwar hybrid of couture and practicality.

3. Evening Costume of White Embroidered Satin (1909) | 🖼️ GGA Image ID # 1ca06f8bee

Exquisite and rare, this ensemble reflects pre-WWI decadence. The pairing of tulle with old rose taffeta beneath beaded white Georgette shows Bernard’s range beyond tailoring—into pure couture magic.

4. Mlle. Dutrieux’s Dinner Gown for the Théâtre des Capucines (1908) | 🖼️ GGA Image ID# 1cb1f63d4d

Stage costumes as fashion statements: this piece reflects Bernard’s celebrity appeal, blending drama, movement, and femininity—a perfect snapshot of Edwardian glamour.

5. Miss May de Souza Wears Bernard (1908) | 🖼️ GGA Image ID # 1cb3a14398

A rare surviving photo of an international starlet in Bernard’s eveningwear—great for students exploring fashion’s intersection with entertainment, gender, and media.

🖼️ Noteworthy Images (Grouped for Educators & Presentations)

(Image Description)

• GGA #1a4830df4d Tailored turquoise coat with fur and Medici collar
• GGA #1c9f93a873 Blue Crêpe Marocain with statement sleeves
• GGA #1c9ff7f2f6 Spring trotteur suit with embroidery
• GGA #1ca06f8bee White embroidered satin evening gown
• GGA #1cafc4ebaf Seaside frock for resort or deckwear
• GGA #1cb1f63d4d Stage gown for French actress Mlle. Dutrieux
• GGA #1cb3a14398 Miss May de Souza in Parisian couture
• GGA #217d142235 1926 note from actress Irene Bordoni praising Bernard's design

📘 Brief Dictionary of Terms

Crêpe Marocain: A heavy, textured silk crepe ideal for flowing gowns.

Duvetyn: A matte-finished wool fabric with a short nap, popular for coats.

Georgette: A sheer, crinkled fabric often used in evening dresses.

Kolinsky: A fine, silky fur often used for collars and cuffs.

Medici Collar: High standing collar named after the Medici family; dramatic and regal.

Shirred: Gathered fabric, typically at sides or back, to add shape and fullness.

Trotteur: A walking suit; essential for daytime travel and public outings.

Velours de Laine: Soft woolen velvet, often used in winter suits or coats.

🎓 Why This Article Matters for Education & Research

📚 Teachers & Students

🔹 Analyze how fashion reflected post-war recovery and modernism

🔹 Explore career pathways for women in couture industries

🔹 Track transatlantic trends and how Paris shaped the fashion imagination of American women

Writing prompt idea: “How did designers like Alice Bernard blend practicality and prestige for the traveling elite?”

🧬 Genealogists & Historians

🔹 Use the gowns and suits described to identify fashion in family photos

🔹 Connect figures like Irene Bordoni or May de Souza to broader fashion networks

Place women ancestors in context: Were they traveling first class? Dressing in French fashion? Shopping internationally?

💬 Final Thoughts – The Global Elegance of Alice Bernard

Alice Bernard stands as a quiet force in the annals of early 20th-century fashion—a couturière who trained under Poiret, collaborated with Lanvin, and went on to create a house that combined expert tailoring, stage drama, and world-spanning elegance.

🛳️ Her clients dined at sea, danced in New York, and promenaded through Paris. Her garments helped define an era where fashion, travel, and identity were deeply interwoven.

Bernard reminds us that not all influential designers become household names, but their legacy lives on in the fabric of the world they dressed.

📚 Educators and students are encouraged to cite and explore the GG Archives’ Fashion and Ocean Travel Collection for essays, visual projects, and deeper dives into Edwardian and Jazz Age lifestyles.