Knitted Elegance & Travel-Ready Couture: The House of Dorat, 1920–1922
📌 Discover the House of Dorat’s 1920s Parisian designs—chic knitted gowns, embroidered dresses, and travel-ready suits crafted for the modern woman. Ideal for fashion historians, genealogists, and students studying early 20th-century ocean travel culture.
The Blue Serge Coat Dress, Embroidered With Tinsel and Wool by Dorat, Showcases Careful Craftsmanship, Conservative Lines, and Bold Details That Make Dorat’s Creations Highly Desirable. With Her Skilled Loom Work and Innovative Designs, Dorat Presents Many Charming Options for the Winter Season. Recognized as a Specialist in Knitted Goods, the Young Brand Is Quickly Establishing a Name for Itself in the Higher Echelons of Dressmaking. (Garment Manufacturers' Index, September 1920) | GGA Image ID # 1a4911145f
👒 Wool, Silk & Chic on the High Seas: The House of Dorat and Transatlantic Style, 1920–1922
The House of Dorat, a relatively young but bold force in early 1920s Parisian couture, brought a fresh blend of craftsmanship, youthfulness, and innovation to the fashion world. Specializing in silk and woolen jersey, knitted sportswear, and tailored garments, Dorat’s designs weren’t just fashionable—they were functional, making them especially appealing to the modern traveler, including those embarking on ocean voyages.
For teachers, students, genealogists, and fashion historians, this profile offers valuable insights into:
Post-WWI women’s lifestyle shifts
The rise of knitted luxury
Changing silhouettes that mirrored freedom and elegance
The kind of wardrobes found in ship trunks en route to European tours or coastal destinations 🌊👗
The winter season unveils a unique collection of youthful and elegant fashion offerings. Among them, I stumbled upon a variety of one-of-a-kind exquisite velvet tailleurs, including long and short jackets. The intricate detail of a fancy blouse, perfectly matching the coat's lining, was a sight to behold.
One piece that stood out was a trim, medium black velvet jacket elegantly juxtaposed with a vibrant yellow blouse. The buttonholes, meticulously crafted in the same yellow silk, were a testament to the artisan's dedication and added a stroke of opulence. The oversized, round mink collar, crafted with the utmost care, was a testament to the lavishness of these winter offerings.
Long triangular points of the same fur ascending the jacket's skirt gave it the necessary flare. With a short, loose coat and a long, single white revers crossing the front, a grey and black check makes for an intelligent fall walking suit. This suit is not only stylish but also practical, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll in the crisp autumn air.
For those who may not be familiar, a 'tailleur' refers to a woman's suit, typically consisting of a matching jacket and skirt. At the same time, a 'revers' is the lapel of a garment, especially a coat or jacket, that is folded back against the neck.
Dorat Designed This White Gown With Two Long, Graceful Trains Edged With Fringe. Bead Ropes Decorate the Bodice. (Garment Manufacturers' Index, July 1921) | GGA Image ID # 1ca266e7f7
I admired a series of princely ermine, mink, and broadtail wraps, all the more so as they become scarcer every year!
The downfall of tricolette has been predicted for years. Yet, we now realize that one or two of these little dresses are indispensable as "slip-ons" and sports dresses. Next comes an exciting collection of knitted dresses.
The striped or ribbed dresses are gorgeous. Turquoise striped in white and grey lined in yellow are "chemises" that depend on sashes and a woven design for ornament. Dorat has her looms and produces her models, whether silk, wool or a mixture of both.
A yellow silk jersey, hand-painted in blue flowers, is brilliant. Still, you cannot imagine this is a plain old tricolette. There are countless fancy stitches; one soft green model is knitted in a check pattern, and the detached back and front panels are edged in monkey.
A great deal of monkeys are used here. Slit at the sides over white brocade is edged with it, the effect very striking.
The most interesting blue serge dress is a straight model embroidered in delicate copper thread tracery from the chest to the hem. The embroidery is faintly pinched in at the back by two heavy copper tassels on either side.
For the afternoon, beige silk detached loops turned in at the foot over an underskirt of gold lace are graceful. At the same time, among the dinner dresses, a pale pink satin with a pointed bodice is charmingly trimmed with three strips of pink ostrich at each side of the skirt.
Pink is the favorite evening color, from flame and geranium to the palest rose chiffon. To relieve the eternal low backs, I must quote a pink and silver lamé cut square and low in front, a panel starting from the neck at the back. The turned-in hemline, a decided favorite, narrows the skirt's fulness, while the loose, wide sash provides the long train.
Tricolette: Typically a silk or rayon knitted fabric used especially for women's clothing. Tailleurs is a woman's tailor-made suit.
This Delightful Frock by Dorat Exudes Youthful Charm. Made From Beige Bure de Laine, It Is Elegantly Trimmed With Blue and Ruby Ribbons. the Accordion-Pleated Sides Add an Exceptionally Stylish Touch, Making This Dress Suitable for Attending a Luncheon or Tea With Impeccable Taste. (Garment Manufacturers' Index, August 1920) | GGA Image ID # 1a36b13e0c
Dorat's collection, one of the first out, gives a good impression of the spring styles; this is almost the first house too that has lowered the prohibitive prices of last season. This is good news if only in the general interest of trade!
The models are charmingly youthful and becoming, with good details. We have a splendid display of three-piece suits, drapella, serge, bure, and new stuff, "drap poudré," or powdered cloth with a smooth chamois-like consistency and finish.
The leading color is beige, which is in various shades.
Skirts have an additional width at the sides, obtained chiefly by box-pleating or superposed panels, and a longer hemline, roughly speaking, ten inches off the ground.
Jackets have high, straight necks at the back and open almost to the waist in front. Among the numerous types of coats, I noted the cutaway, Eton in the back, and boléro in front.
Dorat’s “Cabourg,” the Alluring Costume Shown Above in the Oval, Features a Dress Made of Mauve Wool Tricot. It Is Accented With White Silk Revers and Cuffs, a Graceful Cape, and a Stylish Hat Crafted From the Same Material. the Artistic Floral Border Is Hand-Painted With Oils, Creating an Ensemble as Fabulous and Charming as a Spring Day. (Garment Manufacturers' Index, August 1920) | GGA Image ID # 1a36ee498f
As a particular department, we have the best collection of knitted gowns in Paris. We are far from the plain stitches of yore, and every cunning variety of embroidered and drop stitch are represented. A willow green woven across silver checks, turquoise blue worked in broad black and grey bands, white-edged with delightful Roman stripes.
The crowning success is a fine jersey forming a brocade design, stunning in peach and white. The style is an ingenious variation of the chemise, with sashes of beautiful metal girdles. Each one has a hat to match.
A brilliant example is white jersey brocade, the back of plain cabbage green, forming a close-fitting spencer in front.
Loose vaporous draperies of hand-painted chiffon, Chantilly lace, and thin Japanese are the order of the day for an extensive collection of afternoon and evening gowns, each more charming than the last.
Robe de Courses or Race Dress by Dorat. Photo by Henri Manuel. (Les Modes, June 1921) | GGA Image ID # 1cc85a7db6
Small Houses Hold Openings: Dorat Specializes in Silk and Wool Jersey
Chez Dorat's distinct specialty lies in its silk and woolen jerseys, each with unique features that set them apart. The sportswear range includes models in knitted jerseys, combed and brushed jerseys, and combed silk jerseys in two or many colors. These pieces are typically cut fairly low at the neck, with the skirt knitted in panels. The brand's preference for bright colors, such as red, rust, orange, blue, and white, and mixtures of green and white, adds a vibrant touch to the collection.
At Chez Dorat, jersey blouses are designed for versatility, often featuring no other opening than the hole for the head to pass through and continuing well down to the hips. The use of trimming stripes and bands of stripes, checks, and combinations of silk and metal adds a unique touch to each piece, showcasing the brand's commitment to variety and style.
The collection of knitted models includes even afternoon and semi-evening dresses. According to Dorat, tailor-made clothing is plain with a long jacket, short coatee, or bolero. The skirt is perfectly plain, a testament to the classic and timeless designs that Chez Dorat is known for.
Dorat's evening dresses are made of soft silk, particularly «raped crepe satin, rather in the style of Greek costumes. These dresses exude elegance, with trains that are pointed or made small and set at the side, adding a touch of luxury to the design.
The Beautiful Costume Shown Above Is Made of Dark Brown Fabric and Adorned With Patterned Ribbons and Buttons by Dorat. (The Graphic, 15 April 1922) | GGA Image ID # 217c6e45a8
Evening Dress and Coat by Dorat. (Les Modes, September 1920) | GGA Image ID # 224d5f2c51
Bibliography
"Dorat" in the Garment Manufacturers' Index, New York: The Allen-Nugent Co. Publishers, Vol. II, No. 2, September 1920.
"Dorat," in Garment Manufacturers' Index, New York: The Allen-Nugent Company, Vol. II, No. 9, April 1921.
"Dorat" in the Garment Manufacturers' Index, New York: The Allen-Nugent Co. Publishers, Vol. II, No. 12, July 1921.
Doris Hemming, "Small Houses Hold Openings: Dorat Specializes in Silk and Wool Jersey," in Women's Wear, Toronto: H. Gagnier, Ltd., Vol. V, No. 3, March 1921, p. 10.
🛳️ Relevance to Ocean Travel: Fashion Designed for Port & Deck
Dorat's stylish-yet-practical garments were ideal for women journeying across the Atlantic, either on honeymoon, business, or seasonal holiday.
Three-piece suits, bolero jackets, and box-pleated skirts were easy to pack, mix, and re-style—perfect for the limited wardrobe space aboard steamships.
Soft, jersey-knit dresses and silk slip-ons functioned beautifully for sportswear and informal gatherings on deck.
Evening gowns with trains, decorative tassels, and low backs were ideal for formal shipboard dinners and balls, key social rituals of upper-class ocean travel.
These pieces reflect the practical glamour required by women navigating both fashion-forward Paris and the confined, elegant spaces of transatlantic liners.
🌟 Most Engaging Content Highlights
💫 The Blue Serge Coat Dress with Tinsel Embroidery | 📷 Image ID #1a4911145f
An early example of highly decorative yet wearable travel attire, embroidered with tinsel and wool—Dorat’s hallmark attention to texture is both innovative and elegant.
👗 The White Gown with Dual Trains & Beaded Ropes | 📷 Image ID #1ca266e7f7
A show-stopper for formal evenings, this gown offers a dramatic silhouette, suitable for grand receptions either on board or at elite destinations.
🌸 The “Cabourg” Mauve Wool Tricot Ensemble | 📷 Image ID #1a36ee498f
With its hand-painted floral border and coordinated cape and hat, this outfit blends artistry and travel readiness—a masterpiece of seasonal couture.
🌸 Beige Bure de Laine Frock with Accordion Pleats | 📷 Image ID #1a36b13e0c
Practical and pretty, this luncheon dress was likely worn in Paris cafés or sun-drenched cruise verandas—perfect for students studying daywear of the 1920s.
🏇 The Robe de Courses (Race Dress) | 📷 Image ID #1cc85a7db6
Worn to races or promenades, this fashionable gown highlights how social rituals and public fashion merged, particularly on shore excursions or dockside events.
🖼️ Noteworthy Images
“Evening Dress and Coat by Dorat” (Image ID #224d5f2c51)
A full formal look reflecting Dorat’s range—from outerwear to interior glamour—this pairing reveals how the brand offered head-to-toe outfitting.
“Dark Brown Costume with Patterned Ribbons” (Image ID #217c6e45a8)
Highlights Dorat’s flair for textural contrast and playful trims, critical for 1920s fashion identity.
📘 Brief Dictionary of Terms for the Casual Reader
Bure de Laine: A coarse but refined wool fabric, used for dresses and suits.
Coatee: A short, fitted coat often worn with formal or tailored ensembles.
Drap Poudré: “Powdered cloth”—a textured fabric with a smooth, suede-like finish.
Revers: A folded-back lapel or collar on a jacket.
Spencer: A close-fitting short jacket, originally from the Regency era, revived in 1920s fashion.
Tailleur: A coordinated women’s suit, typically with a skirt and jacket.
Tricolette: A silk or rayon knitted fabric, often used in sportswear.
🎓 Educational Encouragement for Students & Researchers
💡 Students, if you’re writing about 1920s fashion, women’s independence, transatlantic travel, or textile innovation, Dorat is a perfect example of how fashion responded to lifestyle. This article is rich in visuals, garment construction notes, and cultural context.
📚 Don’t forget—GG Archives is not a blog, so while you can't leave comments, you can use these digitized sources as citations in essays, research projects, or multimedia presentations!
